The Water Life

The California Colloquium

2009-04-18T14:01:00.001-07:00

In continuum, I have longed for a way to describe my umbilical attachment to California. My mother had reminded me of the old adage referring to Cali as the as the land of milk and honey. It is true that this land holds inside it the joy, beauty, and nourishing qualities of milk, and the sweet honey stored between the granite gorges towering above the giant sequoias that line the mountain sides. It is a land of passion, exploration, exploitation, adventure and humbling expanses, as well as experiences. Although the state offers the widest array of appetizers mother earth could serve, I have become quite content with California’s healthy serving of its rowdy whitewater, which is where the adventure begins.

Heading south out of Oregon our 15 passenger caravan could be easily mistaken for a band of psychedelic gypsies gearing up for a meeting between the Hell's Angels and the Merry Pranksters. Over 20 oddly shaped kayaks, ranging in color from manic mango and luscious lavender to circus yellow and candy apple red, protrude from the roof racks like fingers outstretched through a jail cell’s metal bars. Each of our worlds has been condensed into a single 18 gallon Rubbermaid bin which stacks like Leggos into the box trailer in tow. Van number 2 extends its colorful array as the trailer in tow harbors another 15 stubby kayaks for our eventual surf sessions off the rocky cliffs of the northern California coast. The passengers themselves sport mohawks, flat billed caps, oversized hoodies, 10$ designer sunglasses, skate shoes and the overall mentality that these white west coast water boys are gangsters,….more likely wanksters. Hip-hop reverberations fill the van…..we roll.

Passing into California in the midst of an afternoon snowstorm we pass towering pines holding snow on the palms of their limbs like a baker's hands and coastal mountains peaking through the falling flakes inviting our curious stares. As we descend from the overland pass, the clouds clear and we are graced with the warm California welcome of sun and green grasslands extending like an ocean of green through the low valley.

An outsized snowy mass far in the distance is stretching its girth into the clouds above, nearly creating its own weather system. I would soon come to realize this was Mt. Shasta, one of California’s 14,000 ft. peaks I plan to ascend later in the year. That is another story.

As we drive deeper into the heart of the state, inclement weather becomes a thing of the past as the skies opened into an inverted blanket of blue. Passing by our nation's fruit plantations, I stare down the perfectly spaced rows of endless trees, watching them flash by me like an old fashioned film reel.

My thoughts stumble at how incredibly far our insidious farming methods have strayed from the primitive high mountain terraces I had been marveled by in China. What enormous amounts we waste.

Thousands of ripe oranges, peaches and lemons lying in the ground - just far enough away from the automated machines reach that they will rot away, fortunately fertilizing the next batch. In disgust of this agricultural ignorance, I pull over the van and hop out stretching my shirt out as a fruit basket - throwing in as many juicy oranges as I can before it becomes completely obvious that we are not having an automotive quandry…. merely an ethical plight.

We divide to make a dinner stop in Sacramento, home to the lower stretches of the American River. Flashback to a few year ago: I was doing a photoshoot on this river for Wave Sport on the 4th of July and witnessed the largest concentration of overly intoxicated and under-privileged yuppies tubing and rafting down the mild riffling stretch of River escaping the burning California sun. During 4 hours of taking pictures, there were so many people floating by that an aerial view would suggest an army marching across a marshland into battle. I was ready to head back into the mountains and realized professional kayaking was taking me away from the kayaking I learned to love. That would be my last year paddling on Team Wavesport.

Fast forward to the present, a good friend named Woody at Liquid Logic Kayaks arranged for me to pick up my new kayak at "The Rriverstore" in Coloma. Coloma is a quaint river town nestled between the lush vegetation and granite-filled hills of the lower Sierra Mountains. It's one of my favorite places in Cali and holds memories of spending my birthday there, paddling waterfalls, steep slides and jumping off the high bridge over the Rio as the burnt-orange sun was settling into the valley below. It just seemed right that the new Liquid Logic Grande that I picked up was as bright orange as the sun I remembered.

The light bulb over earth was tucking in for the evening, and my driving partner and I decided to fill up our gourds with tasty Chilean matte and hot water to freshen up the night leg into our final destination, the Kaweah River. Road signs for Yosemite, Stanislaus, King's Canyon, Devil's Postpile, and Mt. Whitney light up as our headlights pass by igniting the flame inside me that continues to burn my memory with the incredible Sierra whitewater waiting for my return.

Click Here to see the video of our California river running so far (courtesy of my boy Shon Bollock, seen in the green Magnum. )

Lets Take a Walk

2009-02-21T19:05:00.000-08:00

Leaving the hotel in Gongshan, I look up at an old woman gaping down from her balcony, resembling a bobaloop of sorts in her thick pillowed silk turban. I wish her thoughts would penetrate my conscious as I regain my focus to the steps below. Descending into the daily market street, the sights are now becoming as common to my eye as my alarm clock. Every cube of business greets its customers with the same raised garage door releasing a few lucrative products out into the street. The filmstrip of stores lining the streets goes something like this…first the common market furnished with your choice of double mint gum, cigarettes, Sprite, Pepsi, water, RedBull (god they are an incredible company) or a surprisingly delightful nutrient milk containing Melamine (kidney stones beware). Open air produce markets sprawl from every alleyway flourishing with peeling oranges, surprisingly bland bananas, delicious crunchy apples, dwarfed watermelons (perhaps the size of a healthy watermelon without the help of artificial growth hormones) and more mysterious fruits of various colors and shapes only found in these nomadic marketplaces…….and of course, SUGAR CANE ☺, my guilty pleasure.

A stalk of sugar cane nearly as tall as me is merely 6 kuai (90 cents). The satisfaction of peeling this stalk is comparable to that of shucking crabs. I prepare my feast by carefully edging my knife blade into the taught husk, sliding down the length of the cane's heart until reaching the first growth notch, where a quick flick of the wrist releases the husk from the cane. Peeling the circumference, I begin to see the juices inside causing my mouth to water like a storm drain. I thumb the blade into the side, popping off a bite size chunk and grasping the morsel off the knife with my teeth, I roll it back toward the molars and clench down releasing the taste of sweet tropical esctacy into the potholes of tasebuds triggering a sugar smile from ear to ear. Yummmmmmm.

Now my psyche is in prime shape to continue my sugar shucking meander down the remainder of the marketplace. To my left is a barber shop with a brown tinsel floor composed of the prior day's clippings waiting to be be brushed into the street. Passing by shoestores and mini-markets ranging in products from hotplates and thermoses to dried and packaged animal parts that I have only seen in US petstores. Onward, the bakery lies inside its cube of commerce. Cookies galore, all tasting the same, large colorful trays of rolled cakes, all tasting the same, muffins as plain as my description, but the banana bread….flourishing with flavor, every bite reminding me of grandma's baking. I buy extra pieces (pian) but soon the secret is out and our group cleans out every bakery in town of their precious banana bread. They refill the next day. Before long, when an American walks into a bakery, the pre-teen clerk is already putting banana bread into a bag, I now giggle and order something else to preserve my individuality.
Continuing on is the plumber's shop hawking faucets, sinks, hoses and the infamous pearl “browninghole.” This piece of dim-witted Chinese engineering is merely a glorified porcelain bowl that turns your rectal experience into more of a golf game! Choice in style and color does not exist. At least they furnish footgrips on the side of these porcelain contraptions to keep you from loosing traction on your back swing.
Another piece of sugar cane in the system, passing by restaurant row I glance at ankle height stools as wide as a personal pan pizza surrounding the tables. The list of ingredients available are physically displayed in a lighted case: greens, greens, and more greens, meat….mostly pork in all of its glorious forms, organs included. How they turn this array of goulash into palatable meals is beyond me. Mechanic shops, more efficient than a Wal-Mart tire center, do all their repairs on the side of the street. Garages are a luxury reserved for more developed countries, apparently. Tool shops with used tools, another common store, another shoe store, the picture repeats itself as I reach the staircase leading me down the landfill hillside to my day's resting spot on the river.
Returning in the evening, the alley-way markets have unloaded their fruits of labor and the color blends brown again as the wagon coach of farmers begin to trolley their wooded carts out into the streets, then disperse like mice ino the vast network of trails leading back to the the mountain villiages where they will gather for tomorrow's storefront. Heading up the steps back into the hotel, I look back at the settled street as the departed colors leave the gray solidity to blend back into the concrete jungle.

Ironically enough, just as I wrote those last words the Bob Marley song "Concrete Jungle" shuffled into play on my I-pod. I am on the bus Mr. Keasey, my bus that is.

Spiked Shoes, Hydroelectricity and a Humble abode.

2009-02-21T17:22:00.000-08:00

Men working dawn to dusk building Cliff-side roads;
wearing business suits and spiked canvas shoes while handling shovels and hoes.

An array of colorful hardhats piled like a stack of cairns, this protective plastic would serve a better purpose as a noodle bowl, and their colors are as much a status symbol as the dirt under their owner's fingernails. No machine bigger than that which can be carried on one's back is being used. Hours are inches and the inches fill their years.

Function before form is the fashion of the countryside. Every rural convenience store carries one type of shoe on a shelf above the dried fruits and meats. It is a hybrid of sorts, as if an original Chuck Taylor All Star had intercourse with a Babe Ruth era baseball spike. Muddy cliff-side driveways reminiscent of a hunter's favorite deer-path are rather hard to navigate in stilettos you see. And naturally, it is not out of the question to have your stylish choice of “Revolutionary Red” or “Communist Camouflage” on the "souls" of your feet. The laws of supply and demand are no foreign language to the store owners in these rural settlements, as no healthy white Texas high school football player would have a chance at finding his size.

Each rock to be laid on this road is hand-crafted like a Spruce Village bird carving and then dangled from a chain hammock centered on a mildly sturdy log which is supported and transported by the calloused backs of 2 men wearing....well, hard hats...of different colors, of course.

This drive has been adjusting my diaphragm like a rabid chiropractor as the mini meat wagon hauls us over this battlefield commonly recognized as a construction zone; washboards would be as relaxing as a Swedish massage at this point. A dumptruck stops in front of us. As the driver lays on the horn, paying no mind, the dumptruck driver unloads directly in front of us. There is no such thing as a detour here, we wait for the shovels to subside. Cresting the next hill our eyes are greeted with the increasingly familiar face of Chinese industrialization grinning its stone teeth across the canyon walls; the countryside and lives of the people being swallowed into the bowels of this giant beast. My thoughts begin to drown as my consciousness waves goodbye to the fields , villages, stories and souls that will be flooded by the dam below. This story is becoming all too familiar.

Arriving at our destination, I was greeted by the very common "shock and awe" staring back at us through the eyes of the locals. Immediately I lock eyes with one of the villagers, and as my mind searches for the answer for approval of our invasion in his eyes, the ageless wrinkles in his face begin to rise with a smirk, indicating the proud Chinese welcome to his humble dwelling. This destination is the known base camp for the arduous trek spanning the Salween River drainage to our previous watering hole, the Mekong. It is as close as a human can come to the path a bird would fly to span these two gorges (as I mentioned in my last post). Alou, our host, was as welcoming as the smell of the sun baking the fresh sawdust just outside the quarters. With every step forward I fade back into time, eyes glazing over until as clear as blown glass; I am walking up the slight grade toward the sound of my Dad's planer behind the bellowing barn doors of his wood shop, shaving off the same scents that my nose is now inhaling. Stumbling over the raise in the doorway and back into reality, I am feeling quite at home.

Alou runs a very small guide service here; his eyes reflect images of Himalayan mountain peaks and the crow's feet sprawling towards his temples trace his many journeys over the snow covered passes. The guide house is built simply of stone and un-jointed wood. The resting room hosts a small wrap-around couch covered by a colorful Peruvian blanket - inviting me to plop right down on it, until I realize there is less padding than a thermarest separating the blanket from the wooden frame. I think furniture is manufactured by the Chinese government's labor task force, because lounging around is not exactly comfortable, nor desirable, by the red flag toting officials………

Speaking of officials. Our intentions when we came to this village were to complete a community service project in which we would clean up the overwhelming abundance of trash and bottles. The last cleanup provided them with enough glass to construct a bathhouse (cesuo) out of glass bottles, as illustrated in the picture below. However, this time the officials were present and detained Alou for a couple hours and determined that it was illegal for us to pick up trash. I will write that again. “Illegal for us to pick up trash.” That is another story altogether, but needless to say, we were unable to complete our service project………

The walls of the guide house are decorated with various posters of media clippings symbolizing the legitimacy of Alou’s operations. Pinned to the beams nearby are a few posters of Jesus Christ introduced by the marching band of Christian missionaries who blanketed this area in the 1980s. The gathering room, the size of a standard middle class bedroom, is draped in scrolls - all telling of the experiences you may encounter by making the trudge over the sacred mountains. Enlarged maps plotting the journey stretch across one wall continuously conveying the life preserving importance of following the guide's decisions, as weather patterns can end life's journey just as quickly as it began. In the lower corner my eyes fixate on the ever evolving universal language….it reads “GOOGLE”.

The haze in the room is gradually thickening as the smell of frying oil and sautéed vegtables begins to creep into the nasal passages. Che fan le! Lunch time!

Mekong Video Update (#2)

2009-02-17T02:30:00.000-08:00

Mekong Update from World Class Kayak Academy on Vimeo.

Tibetan Sepia

2009-02-15T17:48:00.000-08:00

I wrote a song this week…well perhaps it is more of a poem right now, considering the musical additive has not been applied. Regardless, many people are under the impression that China is covered by a veil of spiritual and majestic life. Although the landscapes of this country and its surrounding borders most definitely satisfy that stereotype, the reality of life here is far different than the picture so many people have painted, and I wanted the poem to portray the image and thoughts that have passed through my eyes and mind on this journey.

However, this journey is its own story and deserves to be told as well...

A bird in East Asia is much more mobile than a human bound by the transportation limitations of a car. A voyage from one river valley to the next is less than 60 miles as a bird flies…if only I had wings. The obstacle separating these valleys is a minor figure known as the Himalayan Mountain Range. So as a bird could snatch a stick for building a nest from the Yangtze River in the morning and place it in a tree in the Mekong River Valley in the afternoon; we mere mortals are not so lucky. We are required to follow the rutted, potholed, dusty mountain roads as they wind like a boneless snake around the breast of the mountains until, alas, their grasp extends out into the open plains - hours and miles away. Gazing through the windows of the Gnome Bus (aptly named because the size of the seats are fitted for dwarfs at best) the frames flash through impoverished villages skirting and supporting the industrial towns ahead. Faces old and young appear covered in the dirt of their own environmental ignorance, as well as the dirt of their agricultural bliss. The country is separated by class like oil and water. A village with dirt roads, stick shelters, a goodwill of sorts outfitting the inhabitants. Behind an open bamboo gate you may see a Porsche SUV parked next to the charcoal pit, the only car in town. Probably belonging to one of the villager's sons, home for a visit from his auspicious job as a high official in the Chinese Red Revolution. A “sell out” is the impression he carries on his back as his past comrades carry their fruits of labor on their backs.

The vibrations rattling through the bus have my brain in a syncopated rhythm as if I’m stepping off a chartered fishing trip onto the vertigo of the dock. The numbness has turned what may once have seemed extraordinary, into my ordinary daily life in China. Hours pass by, the same scenes flashing by the windows, only the landscapes are changing now. High desolate tundra, fit for only the harshest beasts of survival, drab immense mountains stained brown as a result of their colorful ancient trees being stripped from their faces, flat planes of rice fields extending into the thick valley haze, bitter snowy meadows draining their life into the lush tropical river valleys below; then, the countryside is flourishing again, palm trees and bamboo shooting from the cliff sides, mountain streams sprouting through the narrow canyon vegetation, the turquoise river below funneling in and out of limestone gorges like hourglasses of water, all the while, the faces we pass are still smiling.

It has been 2 days of traveling , the sight of the river below has released the fluids of my adrenal glands into my system as my mind wanders through the visions on the turbulent rapids below. With the put-in area in sight, a canal of sourceless water is streaming out of the cliff hundreds of feet above. The mist of the waterfall stretches and waves like a silk scarf down the mountain side until its tassels mist the peaks and the waves of the rapid below. It’s a sight that will not repeat itself as the source of that waterfall disappeared the next day, leaving nothing but a dry cliffside etched with a watermark …..another sign of China's mystical industrialization.

Reaching the put-in we were greeted by a baker's dozen of Tibetan people currently embarked on a 25 day pilgrimage from their village to worship the sacred Tibetan mountain of Kawekabo above. A generation ago, Tibetans would often complete this pilgrimage on foot, kneeling and laying flat after every step as a sign of their commitment to Buddha. It took years to complete. As we geared up, the people were mesmerized by our method of travel on the water, having never seen such crafts. In fact, the sight of a Westerner alone was virgin to many of their eyes.

The rapids to follow were as strong as the local dialect. The first main cataract claimed the egos of many of our young adventurers to be. It was actually relieving to see some of them humbled by the powers of the Mekong waters, it has humbled its inhabitants for lifetimes. I choose clean lines and good times for my adventure as we navigated through numerous trains of overhead waves and holes. Rounding the last river bend we were greeted by rainbows of prayer flags stretching hundreds of feet above the river like footbridges. The hike out of the gorge was filled with more color as scrolls, prayer flags and temples lined the pathway brushing us with colors reminiscent of a box of primary colored Crayolas.
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Two more days of paddling and we began to pack for our trek over the mountain to the roadless Tibetan village of Youbeng seated at the base of Tibet's most sacred mountain. Distance, in such a land of epic proportions, is as difficult to judge as the dialect is to understand. We began to hike, upwards, and upwards, and upwards and…. the grade of the incline remained steady and steep, as if you were forced to earn the respect of the mountain before it would yield its wonders on the other side. Hours later, and 3500 vertical feet above, I wound through the endless tunnel of prayer flags and was rewarded with the most inconceivable view my eyes have ever focused upon. Standing at nearly 13,000 feet, the 23,000 foot snow-capped peaks directly in front of me towered into the clouds as if there was no force on this planet holding them down. The scale is impossible to express through words alone. I had been sick with the aches and pains of a strong cold until this moment - where nature’s beauty injected me with its equivalent of Super-Sudafed. Stunned by the scene around me, the 2500 foot descent into the bowel of the mountain was complete before it began.

The pictures in this post can give you a glimpse of what I saw, but it's similar to looking into a Victorian dollhouse. It all very beautiful, but you can never appreciate the scale and detail until you are in the dollhouse yourself. The people in the villiages on our stay were the happiest, humblest and most proud indiviuals I have ever met. The Tibeten culture has been torn apart, but the Tibetan poeple have hung on to the threads of their ancestral lives. We sang with them, we danced with them, we shared in their rituals, they shared in ours, we devoured their food, spun their prayer wheels, absorbed and re-absorbed their smiles and respected their lives. These people are beautiful, and if you never let your eyes look down, you would never see the impact of their country's desparate revolution.

I read 5 books on this leg of the trip, 3 about the Tibetan people, culture, and hardships, and one about China's communist government and revolutionary ideals. My cultural bias is leaning much further down the hill towards Tibet, but that is another discussion in itself. There are many pieces I left out, as time online is never an utmost priority or luxury here. I can share many more experiences over a nice cold Mountain State Brewery Seneca Pale Ale another day (considering my choice to go dry for this entire venture.) Enjoy the poem below:

A Nation?
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People hauling their lives on the hunch in their backs,
taking footsteps because of the lack of train tracks.
This nation is healing from a culural revolution,
but the wounds remain open and filled with pollution.
Passing by the dusty villagers with smiles on their faces,
strong hearts beating to keep smiles in these desparate places.
A Tibetan man branded with the hardships of his time,
a life a man should not have to photograph in his mind.
Old women with bamboo sticks piled on their shoulders,
every step to the market, she's getting older than the boulders.
Terraces filled with fruits as clean as the day is clear,
but the wrappers of industry below are near.
Shirtless children waving stick switches,
at politicians hiding lies beneath the stitches.
Holding together this nation torn apart,
is nothing but fear and the maroon robed hearts.
Prayer flags strung across high mountin roads,
waving from the draft of another truck load below
Passing by the ones who truly need it,
because their eyes are too RED to see it.
That color is burned into the eyes of these folks,
no longer as white as their harvested egg yolks.
She spends days pushing that cart full of sugar cane,
only to hope the profits will ease some of the pain.
People forced behind the bars of production,
just to give it up to someone else's consumption.
Bankrupt in a life deprived of paycheck,
the real wealth he wears in the beads around his neck.
We dance songs and steps that could move a grindstone,
if they would just listen to the message vibrating the tone.

Xie Jien,
Jesse

The picture below is of me and my Tibetan friend Zachary.

1.

Great Bend Video Update

2009-02-02T21:28:00.000-08:00

WCKA Yangtze Update 2009 from Danny Doran on Vimeo.

This video was created by my Videography class as one of our bi-weekly updates for the WCKA Blogspot. You should definitely check out our World Class blog, as well. www.wckaeast2west.blogspot.com.

China! - The Great Bend of the Yangtze

2009-01-31T22:27:00.000-08:00

After 2 days of traveling and layovers arriving in China was much like the old adage of having a huge weight lifted off my shoulders. Much to my surprise, all of our kayaks and bags arrived on time, as well. Great success!

Our arrival city was Kunming and it was a short 45 minute drive to our destination of Lijang. It is amazing how 12 hours in an airplane can place you into another world. The third world experience before my eyes on the drive to Lijang was well beyond my expectations. The vehicles the farmers drive all have the exact same little two stroke engine and frame. The engine is also used for just about anything that requires power, so when you pass an engine shop, you see the same parts and same gaskets all made for this one engine.

Just as fast as we passed through the farmlands, we landed in Lijang which is currently a tourist city that has preserved its historic and cultural roots. On one side of the city (the old town) the streets are very small and made of stone, the shops and restaurants are rustic and rich with Naxi art. A small stream guides the streets through the old town. On the other side of the city you see the modern emerging world with designer stores, supermarkets, banks, stoplights etc. Spending 2 nights here was plenty as we were all very anxious to begin our 10 day river trip on the Great Bend.

First stop on the road to the Yangtze was the Tiger Leaping Gorge. The Gorge's name evolved from an old legend that a tiger was seen jumping from one side of the Gorge to a rock in the middle of the river and then up to the other side of the Gorge. After seeing the place of this occurance, I find it pretty hard to believe, but the legend seems very real in the eyes of the local guides.

After entering the Gorge via mini-van, we arrived at our hostel which was tucked into the walls of the Gorge like a baby kangaroo. Eating dinner that evening gave a feeling similar to what you would expect from a bivvy ledge on El Capitan. Looking across the table all I could see were the walls of the Gorge. The next morning we made the arduous trek down into the Gorge following the roar below. Along the way we passed through terraces galore, farms and the "oh so common" Chinese barterer. We paid an initial admission to the Gorge, but as we ascended through the tiny villages we were halted by a man in a suit worthy of a Salvation Army sale rack. These suits are the remaining signs of the former Chinese leader Moa Tse-Tung who required all citizens to wear suits. This man requested an additional fee to hike into the Gorge because his family maintains the path. We negotiated a fair price and were on our way.

Weaving through the mine shaft size pathways cut into the limestone walls, we arrived at the river's edge. The power of this section of river is nearly indescribable in words or photos. It rumbles through my body, evoking chills of adrenaline, excitement, fear and serenity all in one. I can only hope to return one day to share this majestic place with others. After spending time absorbing the moment, I prepared myself for the stout hike out of the Gorge. It was possible to return the way we came, but that would be exhausting. The other option was to go vertical up the "sky ladder" which was a homemade ladder system that seemed just about strong enough to hold a newborn and had enough gaps in proteciton that an elephant would find its way through! Spending one more evening in the Gorge, we were on our way to the Yangtze. I am going to give my account of the Yangtze, but I really hope you will get the chance to read what some of the students wrote about their trip for the Journalism class. It talks a lot about the current state of affairs on the Great Bend, as well as documentation of some local dialogues on the damming of the River. www.wckaeast2west.blogspot.com

As culturally rich as the trip has been to date, I was eager to get a taste of the Chinese whitewater. The Great Bend is known for its stunning scenery, remoteness, history and huge rapids. I was not let down. We put on he River at a current mining site that was opened in the last few months. Travis Winn of Last Descents suggested it was a mine now, but it is probably the making of a future dam. The workers were extremely curious and by the time we were ready to put on the River, we had a stadium full of Chinese fans observing our launch. Paddling away from shore, we drifted past the mine site as all the machine workers and laborers aborted work to wave us farewell. Apparently, a river trip with Americans is the equivalent to me or you meeting Barack Obama. Paddling around the first bend, the Gorge began to narrow and tower above our head - exiting us from common terrain to that of a new surreal landscape.

Dropping into the first big rapid was a rush to remember. The power of the water between the walls is much more real while passing through in a tiny Tupperware container, more commonly known as a free-stlye kayak. The day on the water passed with no casualties, just loads of big water fun. Pulling into our campsite was quite exciting, as well. I did not expect such an enormous gathering of sand, but based on the size of the Gorge and it's few outlets for wind, it made sense. I quickly found the perfect spot to sleep perched on a rock overlooking the beach and over our crew members. The picture describes it better.

The next morning I had the urge to hike to the highest peak around which was 2500 feet from the River. Reaching the summit, with a view of the river valley below and the towering snow- capped peaks in the distance, I felt this was the ideal place for my Nana to begin her journey through China, as well. I had carried some of her ashes here to release in a special place.

The next 7 days were filled with great rapids, evening jam sessions by the sandy fireplaces, cultural and industrial learning experiences, and just pure undistracted peace of mind. Obama inauguration, the Chinese New Year, and other major occurances happened while I was tucked away on one of the world's most enchanted valleys. It makes you wonder if all that jazz is really that important? Kind of reminds me of the old question, "If a tree falls in the woods miles away from any person, does it still make a sound?"

I have been blessed win this opportunity and every minute of this experience is shedding a new light on my perspective of life and my own existence. I think eveyone could use an opportunity like this to just step away from everything familiar and go back to being a kid again. Remember how fun that was?

New Biscut Test Ride

2009-01-04T09:47:00.000-08:00

So today is the last day of the year... but it will also be my first of many days shredding in the new medium sized Biscuit.

A few days ago my friend Pat Keller came up from NC to visit and paddle a bunch of rivers in the Western Maryland/West Virginia region with me and my roomate Issac Levinson. The exciting part of this story is that Pat was also playing delivery driver for my shiny new Ice Blue Biscut!

When he arrived, many of the creeks were still raging, so I had to relax my excitement of hopping in this new playboat to instead show Pat down some of the area's finest creeks. Today was my first opportunity to paddle the Biscut, and despite the fact that it

was 18 degrees (Farenheit) and snowing like crazy, I decided to gear up for a session on the Top Yough.

Now I don't want anyone to think this is a comprehensive review of the Biscut's playboating abilities because after about 30 seconds in a hole I couldn't feel my eyeballs. But what I will tell you is that this boat feels really good so far. I am leaving for China in 12 days where I will be playboating the big water rivers for the next 3 months so stay tuned because I will be posting a lot of photos and feedback about the Biscut.

As far as today goes, this is my impression:
River Running:
Everyone knows that tiny playboats are not ideal for serious river running, but some definately perform better than others. The Biscut was suprisingly easy to paddle on the turbulent waters of the Upper Yough. The boat is very stable due to the flat hull and, fortunately, the edges were not as catchy as I expected. The Biscut also feels more narrow than it is due to the tapered design of the area around the body. I like this improvement over the Ronin because the boat does not feel bulky and allows for more torso mobility when performing many of the new tricks. Paddling down river, I had an absolute blast auto-boofing every little lip I came across. The edges on the Biscut are super usable and I had a lot of fun slicing across diagonals and skimming over holes. I never once felt out of control and, actually, had a great time just using the water as my kayak's skate-park. Suckhole wasn't even a problem as I dropped an edge and let the Biscut plane right over the big holes in the meat of the rapid. This little sucker gets a thumbs up from me on the water. Can't wait to get it to China!!

Playboating:
Catching waves and holes on the fly was the name of the game today. Too cold to stay and play. The first feature I got to play on was a fast wave with a little bit of backwash to keep you in. Front surfing was automatic, the rocker on the bow had the Biscut itching to pop into the air but I wanted to keep it on the ground to see how it handled carving back and forth. Once again, the chines on this boat were designed very well and I had no problem keeping control of the boat while spinnig and carving on command. While back-surfing, I tested out a few pops to feel how the hull would release on a McNasty. It was just too darn cold to go for it, but i feel its not going be a problem.

Next stop was a small but retentive hole. I threw about 16 ends in a row and hit the freezing point. The Biscut felt stable on its ends and come around quick. Switching edges mid rotation was easy, and I really just can't wait to get it on a good wave to see the full potential.

Keep checking the Liquid Logic forum for more updates on the Biscut as we go to China in just 2 short weeks.

Cheers

An Epic Whitewater Farewell

2008-12-22T05:47:00.000-08:00

What this past weekend held in store, as far as whitewater goes, was only fit for kings. Western Maryland and West Virginia used to be hidden whitewater gems that have since been exposed to the rest of tha paddling world....and that's just fine with me. Its too good not to share.

As I am nearing my departure date, my schedule is taking on the dreaded tunnel shape and my lucrative free time is coming to an end. The realization has mildly set in that I am not going to have the chance to paddle these great rivers for quite some time, so this past weekend had to be the great huck fest finale.

For those of you who dont know, fact #1, this area has been flooding for a solid month and a half. The Blackwater has been running at levels only navigable by Leprichauns (more than not) and the Yough Corridor has been every bit of a full Gauley release (and then some....like times 2).
The plan this weeekend was to paddle as much of these 2 watersheds as possible, and we did just that. Saturday we were Blackwater Bound with a trusty level 30 something-Night-Elf-Warrior escort, Mr. Russell Bounds. (If you have to ask, you weren't meant to know - ha ha).

Arriving at the rivers, the Upper Blackwater was still a bit out of the comfort range, pumping along at around 1000 cfs. The North Fork was the clear choice.

The North Fork of the Blackwater is, in my opinion, the most amazing steep creek in West Virginia...and I think most would agree. This monster drops 400 feet per mile with every single rapid being completely runnable at all levels. The creek even offers up a beautiful clean 30 footer about a third of the way down, aptly named Gludial Mash. There is also a marginally clean 40 footer at the put-in that is a good gauge for where your Skrum's location is!

Arriving at the creek, the level was perfect and we were ready to begin the laps. The crew: myself, Russell Bounds, Issac Levinson, Geoff Calhoun, Jason Beakes, Nathan Sass, Peter Lutter, Charlie Bartlett and Eric Chance. Issac, Eric and I arrived early and decided to put in a run before everyone got there. First of the crew to arrive next were Jason and Geoff so we busted out another run with DemShitz. FYI - each time you choose to lap the Blackwater, you will be hiking about 600 feet out of the Blackwater Canyon and another mile and a half back to the car. This ain't no phoney frachise.

After the second run, the rest of the crew arrived and were dancing around at the put-in like Barney and Friends. This was also going to be the virgin flight down the NF for Demkidz. Usually your a bit nervous taking someone down this creek for the first time, but these boys are about as solid as it gets, and our run with them was clean, hot, nasty, badd-a$$ fun.

After 3 runs down the North Fork my motivation to hike out of there again had dwindled, knowing that 6 more miles of runnable killer whitewater (aka. Lower Blackwater) was below us. Issac, Jason, Jeff, Eric and I choose to run the Lower B with tons of water down to Hendricks where Mr. Bounds would be awaiting. This was definently the call as the action on the lower B never lets you down.
Here is a quick account of the run:

I somehow nailed myself in the nose with my paddle at Krakatoa shedding some nice blood :)
The Slide had a Hawaii 5.0 wave much cooler than the one everyone has seen Steve Fisher surf on the Zambezi
Chance got his a$$ kicked in one hole and swam in another. I think its cuz his glasses were frozen....literally
We took off just at dark on the shortest day of the year.

With no major injuries and incidents is was a great day and we were heading home for the eve.
For Gauges, Flow Info and Shuttel Directions CLICK HERE.

Epic Whitewater Weekend Day 2:

Waking up to snow on the ground is always an interesting feeling when you know you're about to go kayaking. Yes it's pretty....but, damn, is it cold.

I woke up early knowing I had to run to my parent's house to help out with some chores. On my return, I called the crew to hear the day's decision....what I heard made my skrum shrivel. They wanted to paddle the Top Yough and the Upper Yough, without stopping in 25 degree weather. Mind you, this venture consists of 18 miles of paddling with about a 5 mile section of pure flatwater linking the two whitewater sections. I agreed without hesitation.

The flow for this venture was going to be awesome. Big, juicy, huge holes, giant waves, continuous rapids, tons of gradient.........and of course, completely frozen gear! Putting on the top we found the level to be somewhere near 1000cfs which opens up the sick boof (Big Brother) on river left at Swallow Falls. Just downstream at Swallow tail, the normal center line becomes a boof or die, because the hole is a juicy lowhead damn smiling away at you. ahhhh! My Dagger Green Boat had no trouble turing that smile into a frown. The rest of the run was full of face shots and continuous class V.

Next up was the 5 mile class I paddle to the upper yough. WE FROZE. Nuff Said. You could have beat me off a tree and i think the tree would lose. We needed some good whitewater to shed off this ice......we got it. The upper was ripping along at 3.3 ft. with about 2800CFS. This level on the Upper Yough is amazing. Every rapid becomes huuuuuge but super clean. After running the great rapids on the upper and floating down into Friendsville, I took a little time to myself to enjoy my last day on this River that I call home. Arriving in Friendsville we had about a quarter inch of ice covering our gear so we stopped off a Jim Field's house on the River to thaw out and enjoy a couple glasses of good red wine. The epic weekend was complete :) After doing a little math we successfully paddled:

Over 4000ft of gradient
30 miles of river
12 hours on the water at below freezing temperatures
the best the area had to offer this weekend

Gonna miss this place, but definently stoked to paddle many new rivers around the world.

Extreme Conditioning with Jen Sober

2008-12-19T16:04:00.000-08:00

Deep Creek Lake's physical trainer, Jen Sober, is none other than the real deal! She is the TEVA Running Series champion as well as the most legit chick I know. Issac and I started training with her a month ago (thanks to Russel) and we have spent the better part of this month recovering! Tonight we just wrapped up the Extreme Conditioning class high up on the mighty WISP mountain and I found it to be a class worth recording; basically, so I can take this workout to China. Below is the outline of tonight's session.

Warm-up: 4 reps

Jog in place - 1min

Burpees (Up-downs) - 1 min

Workout 1: 5 reps - alternate

10 pushups

10 mountain climbers

Workout 2: Leg Burns - Using Medicine Ball

20 squats extending ball out with arms

20 lunges extending ball to each side (rotating)

20 Jump lunges extending ball to sides

Workout 3: Abs

40 bicycle situps - twisting torso in unicen with legs

40 leg lifts

Workout 4: Stations - 2 minutes at each

Station 1: Wall Squat with ball between knees, dumbells out to sides. Then switch to squats with dumbell chest press

Station 2: Squats with hand ball extending one arm out perpendicular to body. Switch arms half way.

Station 3: Extended Balance on Yoga Ball

Station 4: Balance pushups to mountain climbers

Station 5: Squat thrusts on floor balance ball rotating to each side

Station 6: Treadmill running

Station 7: Step-ups with ball onto bench

Workout 5: Leg Burners Again

Workout 2: Leg Burns - Using Medicine Ball

20 squats extending ball out with arms

20 lunges extending ball to each side (rotating)

20 Jump lunges extending ball to sides

Workout 6: Abs - With medicine ball

20 situps rotating ball to each side

20 situps with ball over head

20 keeping legs lifted, rotate with ball to each side and touch floor

Workout 7: Abs - 2 sets

40 bicycle crunches

40 legs lifted lower ab crunches

Workout 8: Abs

On elbows in situp position hold steady, back straight for 3 minutes

Stretch it all out!

When done correctly this workout can be executed in 1 hour. And you will feel the pain :)

A little more info about Jen:

Jen has been in the fitness industry for 15 years. She has a B.S. in Exercise Physiology from Trenton State College (now the College of New Jersey). For many years she directed wellness departments in major corporations such as American Express and AOL. Since then she has been in Deep Creek Lake for 7 years teaching a variety of exercise classes. She has been teaching Cardio Kickboxing and Body Sculpting classes for about 15 years and Sports Conditioning Style / Outdoor classes for about 5 years.

If you are interested in participating in Jen's classes visit: http://www.balancedbodystudio.com/index.html

Play Hard,

Jesse

Pringle Run - a Shim-terpretation

2008-12-18T07:39:00.000-08:00

WOWAWEEWA! This creek defines brown. Its the perfect winter creek, there is road access all the way from takeout to put-in, it's only about 3/4 of a mile long and there is no such thing as a pool of flatwater in this little monster. I would recommend building a fire on the sandy beach at the takeout, bringin someone to fire up NA hot totties and grilled steezes, as well as a dedicated shuttle driver (aka Russell Bounds is our pick). With proper setup of these crucial elements, you should be able to lap this creek approximately 80 times on a normal winter day (This will be explained below).

Our crew for this epic was Myself, Issac “Jewbaca” Levinson, and Matt “Dadd-0-5” Taylor. Unfortunately our 4^th person, Matt Fithian had to call in sick, so we did not have a camera to film and take pictures with. The pictures I have used for your reference are from http://www.americanwhitewater.org/. We arrived at the creek just in time to see the steamy brown ripping through the boulders of Pringle…great success yezzz. To our left the Cheat River Narrows looked like the rain gods were thirsty for some chocolate milk, as well; they must have been really thirsty cuz it was rippin' faster than maple syrup through an Amishman’s farm in the spring!

Driving up the creek we could tell that we had no shortage of water and only a shortage of time, so after a quick look at Pringle Falls (which we have renamed because naming a falls after the creek is a bit redundant) we went straight to the put- in. New name for the falls, “Sick-n-more Falls.” Why, you may ask? Because there is a huge Sycamore tree jetting up from the base of the falls, which serves as the perfect marker for scouting from the road and from the creek. Also, the falls are sick….n then there is more. Very Nice.

Putting on the creek requires a very short jaunt through some rhododendron and then you open up right on the creek. After putting on you have about ohhh 50 yards of bebop and then it's onto the first 3 foot ledge that can be run about anywhere. I recommend center right to avoid the rock just downstream on the left. After you bahoos this little drop, it's game on. The creek narrows and things become a bit more one lined. The next drop is the only one that had wood in it but still runnable. After sliding through the center channel at top , you make an immediate hard right turn and take the right slot that will glide back to the left, rail grinding the small tree in the drop. Good to go. Following that maze, you are just above the sliding approach to Sick-n-more Falls. This slide is low angle and probably about 30 feet long but it pushes hard to the left. Not good. So if you stay up on the right side you can cruise right into the shallow right channel of the approach slide. Sliding down the channel will plop you in the frothy waters making up the lip of the 20couple footer. Line it up, grab some brown, and bahoos the shizer out of it. The beauty of this drop is that just after you land and take about 3 strokes you drop in to an extremely fun and wide open 75 foot long slide. Run this slide starting on the center right side of the creek and then just enjoy the flight. After running the slide you have about 30 yards of bepop until you drop into the most technical section of the creek. The boulder garden drops are steep, narrow, fast and really fun. I will let you be the adventurer and discover them for yourself. They kindof remind me of a little steeper and cleaner version of the North Fork put-in rapid stacked back to back. We took 3 runs yesterday before running out of daylight. We also hiked our boats back to the put-in. The gravy train method is outlined below in the Shim-nalysis.

Shim-Nalysis

Flow:

Many people use the Big Sandy as a gauge comparison which seemed to work on this occasion, however, the Sandy drains from an entirely different direction. I feel that Three Fork Creek near Grafton is a better representation because it comes from the same drainage and direction. So choose for yourself but the details are below.

Conditions:

Big Sandy = 7ft and rising

Three Fork Creek = 500 and rising or just spiking straight up

Directions:

Take Rt.72 from Albright towards the Cheat Narrows. After you pass County Hwy43/3 (on the right) it is the next creek on the right side. There is a road that goes up the creek on river left and river right. On river right is a military road called “Pringle Road”, don’t go up it but it’s a good reminder that you found the right creek. Use the access road that follows the creek up the river left side. You will see an official game checking station to let you know you’re on the right path. During hunting season the gate is open. Follow the road over its crest and then park on the left side pull off just after the road flattens out ((about 3/4mile).

Shim-Notes:

This creek is made for lapping. Our fastest run down the creek was 5 minutes flat. So, indulge in the equation below.

1 Run= 5 minutes

1 shuttle (with shuttle bunny) = 1 minute

Time to drink 1 NA hot tottie – 4 minutes

Time to eat 1 grilled cheese – 1 minute

Time to jump in the water and cool off in an Immersion Reasearch Drysuit without getting wet – 2 min

In one hour you can take 8 runs – with shuttles, drink 2 hot-totties, 2 grilled cheeses, and cool off once.

Conclusion – with 10 hours of daylight in the winter, you can take 80 runs a day, but make sure those Hot Totties aren't the leaded version!

Play Hard, Have Fun

Value

2008-12-16T18:59:00.001-08:00

Keeping in touch with the people in my life that matter is far more important to me than any adventure I have searched for. These folks have been my influence, my livelihood, my friends and my heros. I have created this blog to share my experiences with those of you who have guided me along the way. As I leave my roots in Garrett County, I hope you will all enjoy and benefit from the stories I will share and the journey you have influenced.

"To be truly challenging, a voyage, like life, must rest on a firm foundation of financial unrest...and that people fling their lives beneath the wheels of routine in the pursuit of security...and then asks the question of choice, what will it be? Bankruptcy of pocket..or bankruptcy of soul?"

-Sterling Hayden via Steve Fisher

Travel Schedule - Spring 2009

2008-12-16T18:23:00.000-08:00

January 16- Arrive (arrange afternoon arrivals) at LAX International and board for Kunming, Yunnan Province, China. Arrive Lijiang.
January 19- Visit The Nature Conservancy office/presentation and tour old town Lijiang.
January 20- Treck through Tiger Leaping Gorge with Guide/Logistics Coordinator
January 21 – 28 - Great Bend of the Yangtze River, multi-day trip w/ raft support
January 29 – Take off Great Bend, return to Lijiang
January 30 - Rest in Lijiang and share in a presentation with Naxi Cultural Preservation School
February 1 - Drive to Deqin, Mekong River
February 2-4 - Paddle Upper Moon Gorge of Mekong River, stay in Xidong (no internet access)
February 5-7 - Hike to Yubeng and experience life in a roadless Tibetan community at the base of one of China's tallest mountain peaks
February 8 - Paddle Lower Moon Gorge and return to Deqin
February 9 - Drive to Benzilan
February 10-12 - Paddle Yangtze above Benzilan. Stay Benzilan.
February 13 - Drive to Liuku, Salween River
February 14 - Drive to Gongshan.
February 15-26 - Gongshan area (Gongshan sections, Maji section of Salween)
Community service project in Dimaluo, stay in village two nights.
February 27 - Drive to Fugong, paddle. Stay in Fugong.
February 28 - Drive to Gudeng, paddle. Stay Gudeng.
March 1-5: Zen Wave sections, stay Gudeng.
March 6: Zen Wave sections, stay Liuku.
March 7: Drive to Kunming.
March 8-9: Unwind, repack.
March 10: Group two departs.
March 10-20 - Break
March 20 - Meet in Missoula for Drive to California
March 21-22 - Drive to California.
Mar. 23 – Apr. 29 -Creeking in California
Apr. 29 – May 10 - Columbia Gorge, Oregon/Washington
May 11 - 15 – Crystal Springs
May 16 - Best in the West competition.

Quick and EZ River Levels

2008-12-16T18:00:00.000-08:00

For all dem Brown Squaders looking for the quick and steezy link to river levels.

General Information Pages:

USGS National Real Time Data
Americn Whitewater River Info
Deep Creek Hydro Power Station (Upper Yough Release Page and Schedule)
Green River Narrow Page (Tuxedo Hydrostation - 800-829-5253 or 828-698-2068)
Asheville Area Boating Beta

West Virginia:

Blackwater River - WV (This data works for Red Creek, NF Blackwater, Seneca Creek, Lower Blackwater and a number of others in the area.)
Big Sandy - WV - (This data works for Bull Run, Pringle Creek, Daugherty, and others in the area)
Cheat Canyon - WV
Pringle Creek (This gauge is a more accurate representation of Pringle Creek's flow situation)
Deckers Creek - WV
Dry Fork of the Cheat - WV
Gauley River - WV
New River Dries - WV
Laurel Creek - WV
Lower Meadow - WV

Maryland:

Southeast: